If you haven’t been to Edinburgh before, newsflash, I am totally jealous. As the imperious, informative and wicked website visitscotland.com puts it, the capital city is “filled with history, culture, engaging attractions and beautiful architecture. Spend your time exploring its cobbled streets, hidden closes, world-class festivals and lively food and drink scene. Find out what makes Edinburgh so special, from its status as a UNESCO City of Literature and UNESCO World Heritage Site, to being named one of Time Out’s top cities in the world.”

I also have an emotional link to “Auld Reekie” in that I spent my honeymoon there and have been back with my family for short breaks five or six times since. It is a walkable, compact and friendly destination, an intriguing blend of history and culture and (although it is a cliché) Edinburgh really has something for everyone — from ancient castles to hidden alleyways, Michelin-starred dining to cosy pubs. These are my top out-and-about things to do/visit/see, based on my experiences… rest assured, you will be coming back, again and again and…

Walk. Look. Admire. (And it’s free…!)

The city centre is compact, so much can be done on foot. The main attraction is the famous Royal Mile, and neighbouring Grassmarket: it meanders down the Old Town and connects Edinburgh Castle with the Palace of Holyroodhouse via a mile of cobbled street. Look at the ancient buildings on either side and wonder what could have happened in the past, or nip into one of the intriguing shops or pubs. In summer, it will be busy but don’t let that put you off. The common folk of Edinburgh used to live cheek by jowl in one of the many hidden closes and you can discover its secrets (through a guided tour) or head down picture-perfect Victoria Street to the vibrant Grassmarket where you can see the castle in all its glory.

No matter how many times you have seen it, Edinburgh Castle for me is a truly awe-inspiring sight, straddling an extinct volcano, Castle Rock — a historic must-see gem that captures the imagination, especially when beautifully lit up at night. As the castle website puts it, it is “a mighty fortress, the defender of the nation and a world-famous visitor attraction — Edinburgh Castle has dominated the skyline for centuries.” It is worth paying for the guided tour at least once, checking out the light show that happens in the winter, and just walking around at night to see the domineering view over the city.

With the walking boots now hopefully broken in, head for Calton Hill. Calton Hill and the National Monument are situated in Central Edinburgh, east of Edinburgh’s New Town. Marked as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Calton Hill has some of the city’s best views, and if you get up early, the best sunrises. It is also home to some iconic Scottish monuments and buildings. Monuments include the National Monument, Dugald Stewart Monument, Nelson’s Monument, the Old Royal High School, Robert Burns Monument, Political Martyrs’ Monument and the City Observatory. If the city is too bustling and the weather too hot it is a little hike off the main drag and a great place to watch the sunset or sunrise. Depending on the time or season, you may even have time and space to yourself — maybe you can pretend you are Walter Scott, dreaming up a new story set in the Lowlands or Highlands, or Robert Louis Stevenson dreamily composing how Robinson Crusoe will escape his solitary island.

A family favourite of ours is a trek up to Arthur’s Seat — and I mean a trek, as it is a steep climb for the unwary but well worth it. As visitscotland.com succinctly says, it is “located within the ancient grounds of Holyrood Park. This inactive volcano sits 251 metres above sea level and offers 360-degree views of Edinburgh and the Lothians — it’s quite something to feel like you’re in the middle of the Highlands in central Edinburgh. The site is rich in geological, archaeological and historical interest and there are plenty of different paths to follow. Discover the medieval remains of St Anthony’s Chapel, see fascinating geological features such as Samson’s Ribs, or watch the ducks and swans on Duddingston Loch.”

For me, the most amazing thing about Arthur’s Seat is that you feel like you are in the Highlands having a holiday, not just off the centre of the capital. Indeed, parts of it are positively vertigo-inducing — you can see Leith, the sea, and the city and countryside landscape for miles around. Take a coat, take plenty of water and snacks and, of course, your smartphone. You will be using it a lot and then looking back with a tear in your eye. Again, think of going up at sunrise in the milder months and at sunset, just not too late!

Edinburgh is one of those places that keeps drawing you back — not just for its history and beauty, but because there’s always something new to discover. Whether you’re soaking in the culture, sampling whisky, or chasing ghost stories down the Royal Mile, this is a city that lingers with you long after you’ve left.

Useful Facts

Getting There / Around

Arriving in Edinburgh – With excellent rail links from London and other UK cities, plus a well-connected international airport, getting here is simple.

Getting around – The city centre is compact, so much can be done on foot. For longer distances, the tram and buses are reliable. Consider buying a day travel pass if you’re hopping between attractions.

Where to Stay

Old Town charm – Stay close to the Royal Mile if you want cobbled streets, historic closes, and lots of atmosphere.

New Town elegance – Think Georgian townhouses, boutique hotels, and chic Airbnbs.

Budget-friendly options – Edinburgh has plenty of hostels and guesthouses, especially around Cowgate and Haymarket.

Other Cultural Attractions

National Museum of Scotland – Free entry, with exhibits ranging from natural history to Scottish culture.

Scottish National Gallery – Home to works by Botticelli, Turner, and Scottish masters.

Other things  to do

Ghost tours – My son and I loved this. In autumn, it is an atmospheric and creepy experience — you may even come across the Mackenzie poltergeist in Greyfriars Kirkyard.

Royal Botanic Garden – A peaceful escape from the bustle of the city.

Day trips – To St Andrews, just up the coast, famous for its golf, cathedral ruins, and stunning beaches. Hidden gems – Dean Village for postcard-perfect walks.

Camera Obscura Museum – A lovely fun family occasion.

Learn to surf – New to the area and just 25 minutes from Edinburgh city centre is Europe’s largest wave pool at Lost Shore Surf Resort.

Where to Eat and Drink

Traditional fare and cosy pubs – Haggis, neeps, and tatties are worth trying at least once. Pubs are plentiful and full of character (and interesting locals!) — Edinburgh staples like The Café Royal, Kay’s Bar, Barony Bar, and The Guildford Arms are perfect for whisky and real ale lovers.

Modern dining – Edinburgh has Michelin-starred restaurants like The Kitchin, alongside fantastic casual options.

Other Walks and Outdoor Activities

Water of Leith Walkway – A peaceful riverside path that winds through the city.

Day hikes – Head out to Pentland Hills Regional Park for more rugged Scottish scenery.